Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Kaiyodo and Otaku Culture


When we think of contemporary Japan, some of the first things that comes to mind is the Japanese comic book industry, called manga, video games, anime animation, and tokusatsu, live action dramas. Currently, the Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts in Taipei is featuring an exhibition focusing on the development of Kaiyodo and Otaku culture in Japan. Kaiyodo is the name of the manufacturer who developed along with the Otaku culture. Kaiyodo was originally a specialty store that sold models, but over the years, evolved into a center for pop culture and design. Kaiyodo is responsible for the shokugan industry of packaging toys in children's foods and for the development of individual assembly kits called, "Garage Kits." Otaku is the name given to the associated activities and artforms that developed in an area of Tokyo called, Akihabara. The Otaku culture is comprised of both the larger industries, but also includes the manufacture of many small figures, known as doujinshi, or self-published works. You can read more about the
museum at http://www.es199.com/eventsparties1.php?nid-1185
This fascinating exhibition is brought alive with interesting videos of the artists who created the work, plus clear historical information about how it all got started, how the products are made, and of course, the amazingly intricate figures themselves. I have visited the exhibition twice and each time have become a fan of some new set of characters. The halls are lined with small miniature figures that represent the characters we know from movies and storybooks. The characters are sculpted by a series of artists from different types of clay. Typically, the finished characters are then cut with a very fine blade into pieces from which individual molds are cast. Each cast piece is then reassembled and painted in hundreds of steps. All of the manufacturing is done in China where factory workers labor over the figures. Some of the paint jobs are so intricate that some 45 or more individual steps are made from start to finish. Japanese artists have final say on how accurate the casts and paintings are to the original. The artist and factory communicate, overnighting materials back and forth. There are many categories of figures. Some are transformers, some are female. There are military, robots, fantasy characters, dinosaurs, animals, monsters and even some larger figures made specifically for the museum. In particular, I was amazed at the series of Japanese warlords and the animals. The details and tiniest nuance were all perfectly executed.

One artist, Bome, who specializes in the bishoujo, female characterizations, has developed a larger line of characters that were so racy that they were placed in a separate room requiring an ID pass to enter! These figures were definitely suggestive! My favorite however, were the Japanese Shokugan characters created by the artist Shinobu
Matsumura. He worked for the company Furuta when they began placing animaltale figures into their chocolate products. Now that culture, of putting toys into food products, is everywhere. Two days ago, when I purchased a container of milk..a little figurine of a bear was contained in a small box attached to the milk carton. You can see him on the left.

My daughter, Rachael and son-in-law, Anthony Snead, are here for a visit. It is great to have them to explore Taiwan with. Their company is just wonderful! My next blog will feature our travels to Toroko, but here is a picture of Anthony putting together a garage kit! And another picture is of Rachael and Anthony on a mysterious hiking trail 
we discovered behind the famous Grand Hotel in          Taipei.


Sunday, January 27, 2008

Civilized in unique and wonderful ways

When I think about the fact that there are 25,000 people per square mile, I am amazed at the quality of life and the intense order and cleanliness that pervades every public place. Over the past few days I have been collecting images that speak to the innovative quality of life here. Managing this many people in such a small space with such organization is simply impressive and amazing. We could learn a great deal from our Taiwanese friends! In this first image, people are riding the escalator in the subway. Notice that there is a yellow line on the escalator. People stand on the right side, one behind the other, leaving the left-hand side open for those wanting to move much faster. A simple solution to avoid pushing and shoving! This is a totally respectful solution that allows people choice on how quickly they want to move. In the image on the right, once again people are lining up to enter the subway train. Notice the white lines on the ground. Throughout every subway station white lines are painted in double rows indicating where to que up. The lines are painted to the left of the where each train door will open, keeping theose waiting in line out of the way. This allows people to exit the cars first, then the people waiting in line can enter. Check out the picture to the right, showing the gates that first display a blinking red light to let you know that the train is coming and open once the train has stopped. The picture on the left shows the fabulous display that gives you an estimated time for the next train's arrival, plus visuals that are stimulating!

The subway is an innovative space where the largest mall in Taipei exists underground! It is packed with people and goods, especially toys. I also visited an pottery exhibition and an
aquarium in the subway. Unique ways for bringing culture and arts to everyone, for free! I am so impressed with the cleanliness of the subway and most public places. I noticed that there are no wrappers in the subway like we see in the US and learned that there is a 3000NT fine ($100.00) if you are caught eating, drinking or chewing gum on the subway or in the station area!  

The bathrooms are also quite unusual. There are typical American toilets available in most public places, but there are also toilets that look like the one on the left. The flush
mechanism is operated with the foot. What is great about it is that you don't touch anything making this an ideal public toilet.

Another safety feature that was actually invented by the 
Taiwanese is their system of letting you know when you
can safely cross the street. A little green running man 
and a series of numbers that count down from 45 or even 60 seconds lets you know it is ok to cross. The man turns red and stands still when you have to wait. 



The smog in Taipei can be pretty bad at times and people sensibly don masks for protection. They also wear masks if they have a cold and don't want to infect anyone around them. The masks come
 in all sorts of styles and colors, with many of them falling into the category of "designer masks!" 


In my kitchen there is a huge drain in the sink. In Taiwan, people put small netting tubes over their drains. When they want to empty them, they just lift out the little net bag, never touching food particles and debris.

Packaging in Taiwan is sensational. A few days ago, my friend Chuing-Chun (Gina) brought some cake. The box unfolded to make a tray, for serving, complete 
with forks, neatly taped to the side. Check this out! CLEVER!!

Everyday, I see more and more ideas that are both creative and responsive to the needs of people. Whenever you enter a building there are umbrella racks just outside the door. In some buildings an attendant will had you a plastic bag to slip your umbrella in before entering the building. I will continue to add materials to this section as I learn more and more about the culture and practices of the Taiwanese.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Settling in

The last few days have been spent just settling into my new home. The constant din of noise has been a tough one for me to get used to. Even with double window panes and earplugs, I am having a tough time getting a good night's sleep. This is a city that never quiets down. Dogs bark, cats meow, people laugh, doorbells ring and scooters rev around until all hours of the night. It is a far cry from Carlisle and our peaceful farm. It makes me laugh now to think that I have complained about the distant roar of 81! The picture to the right is a building called 101. It is currently the tallest building in the world at 1670 feet high! The top is lost in the clouds. 

Taiwan is getting ready for the Chinese New Year, and since my apartment is on the street of costumes, I have been getting a first-hand glimpse of the preparations. Firecrackers seems to be a huge symbol and you can see them everywhere, some as high as ten feet! Displays of red things are everywhere with many special decorations and symbols of the holiday. Check oout this sight for more info on Taipei and the Chinese New Year Celebration. http://www.thingsasian.com/stories-photos/2285


A few days ago, while roaming around my neighborhood, I cam across an artist doing incredible silhouettes. Check out his work above.


And how is this for a new kind of hot dog?

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

JIUFEN with the Girls



For the past two days, I have been in northern Taiwan, in a densley packed, ancient town, set on the side of a mountain. Winding, narrow roads lead you through steeply pitched scenery, the thin layers of cloud and fog and the ever-present mist wafting up from the ocean far below, as you wind your way up the mountainside to the start of the marketplace.

Jiufen, also written as Jiofen, was orginally an isolated mountain town, cut off from the rest of the world until gold dust was discovered in 1893. The resulting gold rush reached its peak during the Japanese Colonization period. Today many Japanese style inns, teahouses, restaurants and the gorgeous Gold Ecological Park remain true to the original Japanese aesthetic. During WWII, a POW camp was established there for holding Allied soldiers, including many British, who were captured in Singapore and forced to work the mines. The mines were eventually shut down in 1987. Jiufen became an impressive tourist attraction after several movies were filmed there. The Gold Ecological Park was established to preserve the mine, the Japanese structures, gardens and the memories of this period of history.



The gorgeous mountains and breathtaking views of the ocean are visible from hundreds of spots throughout the area. The marketplace is open 7 days a week and is jam-packed with tourists, mostly Taiwanese, Chinese and Japanese. The marketplace is made from an endless series of winding and interlocking narrow streets, lined with awning covered shops that sell everything you can imagine and more including food, candy, clothing, trinkets, calligraphy, shoes, brushes, scrolls, jewelry, toys, massage instruments..and all manner of souvenirs! Restaurants, teahouses and eateries of all varieties sit sandwiched among the shops. The odors change from pungent almond to roasting meat to an indescribable putrid within seconds. It is remarkable; a visual, auditory and full sensory experience. At one moment, there is the din of people scrambling for fresh dumplings followed by the hawkings of the "jelly girls" (I nicknamed this twosome who sold gelatin shapes in all flavors) beckoning you to taste a slice of their confections. Further on, the market is silent, broken only by the high-pitched flautist selling her beautifully hand-made ceramic flutes. On further, people are huddled together sipping and munching on the house specialty..a combination of fruit and dough balls cooked in some sort of a soup. The amount of humanity packed into this place is equalled only by the herds of mangy dogs running underfoot, begging for food and comfort.

I traveled to Jiufen in the company of Dr. Chiu-Jhen Chen and her six graduate students, all charming young women who could not have been more gracious and helpful to me and Dr. Chen. We started our journey, early on Monday morning with a 50 minute train ride from the main train station in Taipei to the Rueifang Station, followed by a ten minute taxi ride to the Jiufen markeplace.

We spent the night in a lovely hotel that had scenic overlooks that captivated me, despite the heavy rainfalls. This hotel has a 20 foot high wall made from stones that had been carved into blocks, indigenous to the area, that is simply awesome. I have included a picture of it. To get to the hotel we climbed up at least three thousand stairs. Since Jiufen is built along a mountainside, there is no other option than to climb those steps higher and higher. Carrying suitcases and purchases made along the way made it challenging, especially when balancing an umbrella and whatever you happen to be munching on! Lucky for Dr. Chen and myself that the grad students, displaying their continual respect for their Professor and her friend, immediately grabbed our packages, making the hike much more doable. 

Although the shopping was fun, the food strange, but good, once I got myself to try it, my favorite part of the trip was the tea house where we spent the afternoon. The girls found a beautiful spot high upon the hill with picture windows facing out to the mountains and ocean below. We arrived in the rain and the view was bleak and foggy. But as the afternoon slipped away, the clouds lifted and the view became quite clear and magical. We opened the windows and felt such a fresh sweep of ocean air, that it seemed as if the last vestiges of my jet lag evaporated into the air.

We enjoyed a traditional tea ceremony which included the steeping of tea leaves and flowers and the pouring of the first pot of tea over the cups. This first pouring is discarded, more water is added to the leaves and the tiny cups are filled. The drinking of the tea began in earnest and continued for four refills before the ceremony was repeated. Interspersed with our tea activities, we ate wonderful dried fruit, played a variety of card games, I learned my requisite ten new Mandarin vocabulary words per day and we simply sat and visited. It grew dark and we became hungry and ordered a wonderful meal. Eventually, we trekked back up the hill, up the three thousand steps and found our way to our richly appointed beds. I was thrilled to find a TV with English speaking movies! So here I was in Jiufen, perched high atop a mountain, hanging out over the ocean, snuggled down in my quilted and buffeted down feathers, watching "Finding Dr. Nimo." 

The next morning, it was still raining, but after eating a breakfast of soy milk tea plus bread and green onions ( I brushed my teeth at least ten times after that one,) we took another cab up to the Gold Ecological Park. This is a wonderful place to visit, especially the gardens and mountain vistas surrounding the Prince of Japan's home. There is a lovely restaurant that serves a typical miner's lunch. The meal of pork chops, rice, a hard boiled egg and some chopped up pickles came in a metal tin, wrapped in a bandana with a set of wooden chopsticks fastened in the knot. (picture included) I got to take my metal tin home with me and will reuse it for something! There was so much to learn, see and appreciate in this park, including lovely scroll mounted paintings of the vistas surrounding the park, jewelry made from gold and the mega block of gold. Anyone who can actually pick it up can take it home with them. The waterfalls and closeness of the mountains makes me feel as if I am in another world. It was breathtaking!

We took the train back to Taipei in the afternoon and I arrived back home just in time to take my garbage down for the daily 5 PM pick-up. It was a great trip, made even better by the great company I had with me. See more pictures by clicking JiuFen!

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Gorgeous Presentations!


















Over the past four days, since arriving in Taipei, I have been welcomed by faculty and students through an incredible display of hospitality. My apartment has been furnished and appointed with everything I could possibly need during my stay in Taiwan. The array of food I have eaten is quite varied, but the display and presentation is always remarkable. The photos in this blog entry are just a sample of the visual culinary experience that tempts the eye as it does the palette. Eating is truly an aesthetic experience.

   

Friday, January 18, 2008

Taiwan at Last! VISA woes....

I arrived in Taiwan on Wednesday night at 9:30 PM, January 16, 2008. That would be 8:30 am PA time. The 11 hour flight from LA to Tokyo was exhausting and super cramped. I immediately upgraded my ticket to economy plus for $75.00 to get tons of extra leg room. United may be the only airline with this set-up, but my last leg of the journey..3 hours from Tokyo to Taiwan was a dream! United's 777 planes are fabulously appointed for international travel. Each seat has its own video screen and six or so current movies and numerous music stations available. The movies are repeated continuously from take-off to landing.I saw five movies between both flights, ate three full meals, several snacks, took a few naps and studied about Taiwan. United has a new flight..11 hours from Taipei, Taiwan straight to San Francisco that is a great time savings over the flight I had.

Upon entry to Taiwan, I learned that the gorgeous, calligraphed document sent to me by the Taipei Municipal University of Education that I carried with me was a working permit and not a VISA. The officials allowed me into Taiwan with the stipulation that I get a multiple entrance VISA within a month. Easier said then done! After numerous episodes of yelling with officials, Dr. Gow got assurances that despite many new rules, a VISA could be issued with a letter from the University president. If this does not work, I will be on my way to Hong Kong, to the US Embassy to get a VISA. Jimmy Carter closed the Taiwan embassy while he was President in favor of opening one with China. Since Taiwan is no independent from China, only one full embassy has existed since then and that is in Hong Kong. In Taiwan there is just an office, nothing more. This is a difficult situation and means that I cannot get residence status or open a bank account! I hope it is resolved soon as it is on my mind and troublesome.

The past few days have been spent meeting new people and reacquainted myself with my old buddies. In the last picture, I am standing with the President of the Taipei Municipal University of Education, (TMUE.) He greeted me with a symbol of the New Year, a new cooking pot for the stove! The Chinese New Year will happen in the first week of February and everyone is revving up for this most important holiday. More on that later! Dr. Liu YuanTsun is a very elegant man who greeted me with warmth and enthusiasm. He is also a calligrapher and a physicist.

I have learned the route from my apartment to school and to the supermarket, shops, restaurants and the subway. I have eaten a variety of oddly shaped, colorful and unique tasting foods. I have actually had to slow down on this a bit because I am starting to feel a little ill. The cafeteria at the University is a trip. In the center are many tables and all around the enormous space are small shops where a variety of cooking takes place.
Students drift in and out carrying the most amazing looking food. Chen Fung, my keeper (Ha Ha) led me to a tofu bar. Here you select as many types and pieces of tofu as you want, add in your choice of noodles, greens and then the chef boils it in water, dumps it into a bowl and adds broth. At the spice table you can select from numerous and mysterious-looking and smelling bottles of spicy combinations of "dressings" that are placed on the steamed veggies and noodles. It was delicious and cost less than $2 for more food than I could eat at one time.

Tomorrow I am opting for the Japanese style food bar. Last night at my welcoming party, I ate sauted jelly fish. They tasted like crunchy worms. The food is amazing, but sometimes, I have to politely refuse. When a soup of floating circular and tubular squid was placed in front of me, I knew I had reached a no way place. Eventually I will get there..just not right now when everything is still so new! I have to pace myself and not appear rude by refusing to try some special offering or combination that is totally unfamiliar to me.

This evening I attended a welcome to Taiwan party with faculty and the Young family. Mr and Mrs. Young own a large development corporation in Taiwan. Their daughter just completed her doctoral studies at Penn State in Art Education. Mr Young has offered to be my benefactor while I am in Taiwan and will support my travel and work. It was all pretty amazing to experience the generosity and enthusiastic caring of this group of Taiwanese citizens who welcomed me with genuine sincerity! I presented the Young family with a small painting of my farm in South Central PA.I hope my relationship with the Yongs will continue to flourish. You can see us in the picture with Chui-Jhin, my dear Taiwanese friend. She is standing on the far right.

My apartment is really in a great place, sitting in the Times Square Section of Taipei. It is a shopping paradise and life is bursting forth among the many shops and cafes, all day long. There is a 60 story building called Party World which contains floors of dance clubs, karoke clubs and restaurants. The supermarket is ten floors of everything from what to wear to what to eat. Carts move through the levels on flattened escalators. n between the up and down escalators, bins running along the handrails held every imaginable chip and pretzel brand. People were just grabbing bags of stuff as we went from level to level. Now this place is no Wegmans, but it is an incredibly unique experience, bursting with sights, sounds and smells one could only find here in Taipei, Taiwan. This is a very rich visual environment..more so than what I remembered. The wrappers and boxes are so brightly colored and shiny. Everything seems rich and textured. The build-up to Chinese New Year's has begun. It is almost the antithesis of the Asian aesthetic of quiet and elegance. Even some of the trees are decorated with blue and yellow twinkling lights!

I spent some time setting up my studio and even stretched a 6' x 4' piece of 400 pound arches watercolor paper onto an eight-foot board. I am getting started on my work! The studio is not large but has great northwest light and many windows. I am required to put four hours a week in, but I hope to like this spot and give it many more hours per week. I am still getting things fixed up. I am already collecting some pretty interesting vegetables and fruit and developing new compositions. I hope to start painting today. 

The jet lag is slowly going away and over the next few days I will take some down time to get settled in. There is a dog barking that sounds exactly like my Kahuna. Ugh..pangs of longing!
I have not yet grasped the enormity of what lies ahead for me.. I need to settle down!

Monday, January 14, 2008

Los Angeles, Newport Beach and the Mojave Desert



The last few days have been spent with Ruben's family who live in the LA-Hesperia part of California. We are currently in the Mojave Desert surrounded by uniquely shaped hills and Joshua trees. Antelope Highway is a fascinating study in these unique brown hills that seem uninhabitable, but are not!

Newport Beach is a lovely and lively beach town on the coast south of LA. We took an enchanting sunset boat ride around the harbour and saw the homes of the rich and famous. It was an amazing array of architectural styles. Some homes were quite autentic replicas to the massive structures I have seen in Italy, Spain and the wild west!

Today is my last day on U.S. soil. I will be flying to Narita airport in Japan tomorrow morning, then on to Taipei, Taiwan. I will arrive on Wednesday, at 9:30 PM my time, 8:30 AM, PA time. My next post will be from Taiwan. Zai Jian!

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Departure

Zai Jian. The best part about leaving is that I know I will get to come back home in six months and resume my wonderful life, again. I have been blessed with wonderful friends and family, students and colleagues, UUCV, my choir family, doctors, pharmacists, restaurants, theatre, art galleries, dance teachers, schools and everything is surrounded by the beautiful and dramatic landscape of the Cumberland Valley. Carlisle-Shippensburg is a great place to live and work. Saying good-bye is almost a celebration of joy for the happiness and love I feel in my world. I made a great life here and I have every reason to believe that my life in Taiwan will also be great. I leave without anxiety, just total gratitude and joy for all that is to come.

7:57 am departure from Harrisburg to Chicago. Chicago to LA.

Saturday, January 5, 2008

Immunizations

Before traveling to Taiwan, it is advisable to contact the Travel Department at Holy Spirit Hospital, 717-972-4222, locally in the Harrisburg, PA, or the National Center for Disease Control.
http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/destinationTaiwan.aspx#notices

Find out at least six months before travel what immunizations are required and what health alerts have been posted. The Holy Spirit Travel Dept. personnel can tell you exactly what you need. Right now I need the Hepatitis A series of 3 vaccines given 2 months apart, Hepatitis B, Dysentery immunization, Tetanus, Japanese Encephalitis and Typhoid. If you get started late on the Hepatitis A series, you may also need to take immune globulin, up to 3 CC's to provide temporary protection. This is serious business. You can become terribly ill, even die from some of these illnesses. I will be taking my series of immunizations on Monday morning. I should have started earlier, but was unaware that I needed shots.

When I traveled to Taiwan in 2000, I did not have any shots, at all, and I was totally unaware of the danger I had placed myself in. You can get any of these illnesses through physical contact, ingesting raw, infected foods, especially when you trek in back-country areas, or frequently eat or drink in settings of poor sanitation. If you start late, you can also take some of the shots in Taiwan. I will be taking the Japanese Encephalitis series of two shots in Taiwan.

One other piece of information is that most insurance companies do not pay for these shots. Travel is considered a luxury. The cost of these immunizations are a hundred dollars or more, in some cases, per immunization. Some side effects may be present.